April 18

Things have moved along- some planned, some just because. I’m on the Shropshire Union Canal, having moved through the Excitement of The Birmingham Main Line canals. There are two: the old and the new. This is because in the early 1800’s there was so much traffic through Birmingham, that the congestion demanded a freeway (motorway?). So, the new line was built, lower (by three locks) than the old line, which eliminated the three up and three down of the old line (unless you go to Wolverhampton, which I did). The old line winds around more, but is more scenic and less surrounded by derelict factories, though at one lace they are side by side, and at another the old line crosses over the new.

I stayed the night in Wolverhampton, in the basin at the top of the locks. This was my third choice, but each of the other two had major hassles: in one, you could moor- but not get off the mooring, because of brick walls. The second said” services” but in fine print once at the mooring, said “no overnight”, so on I went. This was inner city mooring- three homeless people sleeping on benches within 25m, main ring road with path to hospital (or police station- I cannot tell the sirens apart) then a nice early start as the city arborists started pruning a large willow tree across the canal. Impetus to get going. I did, and completed the 21 locks of the Wolverhampton flight in 3h38min. I was a little tired by the end… The day was great however, with mostly sunny until the clouds rolled in about lock 18. I completed #21, turned right onto a short stretch of the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal, got diesel fuel, then headed north up the Shropshire union canal. Rural, but VERY different than the other canals I’ve travelled. This was one of the last canals to be built, and machinery and techniques had changed drastically. No winding contour-following here- as straight as possible, through hills and valleys with impunity (or just a vast amount of labour to dig and pile that amount of rock and earth). There are Very deep cuttings with sheer sides looming over the traveller, and long embankments where the boat almost seems to float along, suspended under the sky (wait- the boat does float, and I am under the sky…Hmmm a different allusion is needed.)

The weather suddenly turned much colder and the wind (in my face, of course) rose. I was still sweaty from the exertions of earlier, and by the time I was to stop, I was very chilled. A nice fire was indicated! I stopped in a little village called Wheaton Aston, but didn’t explore or do anything except warm up, eat, then sleep. Quiet, peaceful and very nice.

Today, the sky returned to bright blue with no clouds. Gorgeous, though crisp early. I wanted to get a good start, so off I went. Canal touring really doesn’t get any better than today. Tunes of lots of shows popped into my head, and I was going to sing, but thought I’d frighten the wildlife and the sheep. It was a gorgeous day, and I was going to stop at Market Drayton, but thought ‘why stop, it is such a fine day’. On I went, and here a few small issues arose. I stopped at a beautiful place in the country- no internet or phone, and I had made appointments to meet. OK, next place: couldn’t get close to the bank because of silting. 5 locks in the way, so do them (arggh- it is past my dinner time!), now the internet works, but the field adjacent has just been spread with fresh manure! Farm smells are one thing, but this was really too much. Then just before the locks at Audlem (15- can’t do them before dark), I found a gorgeous, quiet, non-smelly, accessible spot, with phone service. A perfect end to a wonderful day. This is what canal life is really like. I’m out to see the stars- no light pollution, clear skies, and enjoy the peace of rural Britain.