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Sorry, it has been a while.

I am back in Braunston, having met the boat painter I think I will be using to paint the boat completely, likely during my Christmas sojurn to Canada. Came back down the Ashby Canal, then the Coventry Canal, and finally the northern Oxford Canal, back to the home base in Braunston. The weather wasn’t all that nice: rain, lots of wind, but not cold: it was tropical air, but not the nicest. I chose stopping places based on the shelter, rather than the scenery.

Got back to Braunston late Friday, and was moored by the bridge just outside the marina.

This has to be one of the most photogenic places anywhere.

Saturday I went to Northampton for some bits and pieces for the boat. Why Northampton? I hadn’t been there before, and it was only 20 minutes away. Some fixups when I returned, then a gentle evening under the start: the clouds went away, and so did the wind.

This morning: wow.

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my favourite bridge, beside Braunston Marina, on a gorgeous October morn

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The photo on the left is the marina where I likely will be based for the winter, about 8 boats up from the right. The right side is the peaceful mooring along the canal itself in Braunston. Wandering Canuck is the boat on the left with the funny white stripes on the bow.

Today was gorgeous: 22 degrees, sunny. Bike ride weather. Polish brass outside, read a book, go for a walk, bask in the autumn special day. Before church this morning, they were ringing changes , and invited me to observe, then join them on Thursday. Guess where I’ll be Thursday?

It is days like today that make this odyssey especially rewarding, memorable, and wishing I could share it with you all.

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cheap Lyrica australiaThe peace of an autumn day of the canals.

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The northern Oxford canal- a tunnel of peace and tranquility.

I am now back on the move, having spent a couple of days in Coventry. Plumbing is no longer a mystery, and I have a new radiator to replace the leaky one. Getting ready for cooler days. Was in Coventry Cathedral for morning service: their patronal festival, so everyone was in fine form. The new cathedral is stark and modern, but has the longest reverberation time I have experienced. This was also the last service for the assistant organist who is taking up a new position, and so he really dusted out all the pipes! Was quite magic.

I intend to continue up the Coventry Canal to Nuneaton, checking out a boat painter there, and then perhaps back to the solitude of the Ashby Canal. We’ll see.

This ophoto is just at the marina in Braunston, in the evening: a really magic place and one of the reasons I have chosen this as my base for exploration.

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Well, sorry about the lack of pics.
Internet issues…

I am back on the move, after a number of days in the Braunston area. Karen has returned to Canada, and promised a review of the experience for prospective gap year applicants.

I have spent a couple of days pausing to regroup, to deal with boat issues (coal, diesel, a pew parts ,TV antenna, etc). My  car had an interesting issue: the passenger window suddenly disappeared into the interior of the door. I tried to retrieve the thing, to no avail (expert body work advice needed to take apart a door!) No luck so dredged into my Volkswagen past, and manufactured a new acrylic window as a temporary fix, as  I had done 10 or so years ago on a very cold December day when the driver’s window shattered all over me. Took to Coventry repair shop and all fixed appropriately, at reasonable cost (just took the best part of a day to do so).

I’m now north of Braunston, on the Oxford canal, a stretch of canal I now know quite well (3rd trip). Will go slowly, getting boat details addressed, but weather is spectacular, so bike rides, short canal trips, and general enjoying the lovely autumn is in store. There is no rush. Installed further sound insulation, and will also install hospital silencer (big muffler) when I get that tomorrow at the Hillmorton Canal Shop chandlery ( a favourite place- they are great, provide service, advice and are really cost effective compared to the cold, more expensive, Midland place in Braunston, that I don’t really like.) The place looks like my Vancouver office, but the people are great, and I really like going there. They have the best diesel prices too, though I like to support the travelling fuel barge.

I’m going to see the lay of the canal system to see where to go next: The Coventry canal is interesting and I might spend some time exploring the Ashby as well. We will see.

 

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The saga continues. After stopping at Long Itchington (gotta love the names of places) and finishing the day with a pint and dinner at The Duck Pond Inn (in front of which is– a duck pond, the center of attraction in the village of Long Itchington)- as you can imagine, a sort of sleepy relaxed little village, but also the home of a major boatbuilder in Britain, probably accounting for more than any other company. I digress.

Toured along the Grand Union Canal towards Napton Junction, and now have shared a number of locks with a nice couple, Wilber and Dee aboard Olivia. We shared tea as they turned to the Oxford Canal and we the other way towards Braunston. A glorious fall afternoon, following breeze, broken sunshine, and a spectacular view of the countryside.

Arrived in Braunston, and moored in the marina in the berth they have reserved for me for the winter. Decided to visit the one pub in Braunston that I haven’t been to, beside the canal, and made a very bad decision for supper. I felt a sudden chill about halfway through the meal, and didn’t really get it. That was to come! As we returned to the boat, I really felt unwell, and then the eruptions began. Food poisoning. I couldn’t sleep much at all, and by morning every aspect of what I had eaten had been removed from my body. More graphic descriptions are NOT necessary. Mussels are off the menu for a while!

I felt wrung out all day, and so, really didn’t do much. All better this morning after a great sleep and no further consequences. I am looking forward to a glorious day: the weather is supposed to be warm and the first official day of autumn is the start of a new season all-round.

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I have now made the trek up the locks of the Stratford  Canal, to Kingswood Junction, and have made the turn to the Grand Union Canal. I stayed last night at the jounction, (underneath a train bridge- had to stop there as I arrive later in the afternoon, and there was rain, wind, no other moorings away from the tracks.) Sounds like a disaster, but really, the trains are MUCH quieter than any I have experienced in Canada, and they really weren’t running much through the night, though 5am was the start of the commuter run!

It was a spectacular morning, a little mist on the water, brilliant blue sky and absolutely calm. Started out towards the Hatton Flight of locks, and a wee tunnel to get there. All good: a spectacular autumn morning. Just before the locks, stopped for a bit to eat, and then the exercise started. The Hatton locks are wide locks, with huge gates each weighing about 2 tonnes. Karen wanted to do locks (she is a fitness person as well as a travel expert), and insisted upon doing the work. There was a volunteer lock keeper that assists people getting through the 21 locks, and initially Karen insisted on doing the work all herself. After a couple, she relented somewhat, and the keep assisted by preparing the locks ahead (EVERY one was set against us).

After 4h we finished, and arrived in Warwick, where we found a mooring just at the head of the Saltisford Arm where we had stayed with Nick and Chris earlier in the journey. Just as we tied up, the heavens opened and there had a serious shower. An hour later, Karen and I went into Warwick to see the sights and get some provisions. She shopped, I looked for a camera store, and we are going to explore Warwick Castle tomorrow. Pictures are promised! Moored next to us is a couple the we had encountered on a lock or two on the Kennet and Avon Canal, early in the summer. They have a unique boat that they are painting lemon yellow and pinky-purple. There is a big sunny smiley face on the stern doors. Very distinctive, and they were immediately all agog in encountering the Wandering Canuck again, after almost 2 months. The canals are such a small community, and that is one of the best aspects of the system.

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I’ve left Stratford-upon-Avon, and am now northbound on the Stratford Canal. Back to narrow locks, and skinny bridges!

We had an incident with a fisherman yesterday that escalated so I had to call the police to resolve the issue. I do hope that isn’t a portent of all encounters with fishermen: the issue had all sorts of ugly potential, as we are really captive in terms of being able to withdraw. There really is not much I can do, but all’s well that ends well (to coin a phrase.)

We did the Wilmcote flight of locks in the pouring rain so we could move on from the incident, and thus were soaked and chilled by the end of the 16 locks. Wilmcote has Mary Arden’s Farm (she is Shakespeare’s mother), which I hope to explore today. This is a Tudor farm,living museum, and hopefully will give a real window into 17th century life.

What an introduction for Karen as she evaluated whether my transition year experience is appropriate and as advertised. On the other hand, I now appreciate, personally, the services of the local constabulary.

 

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Stratford-upon-Avon. A charming town, but so wrapped up in the touristy stuff about Shakespeare, it is easy to miss the rest of the charm, history, and really great things to see and do. Visited extensively with Nikki and Alan who I met doing the river locks, and we shared some great moments (especially discussing who fell in, and why..- and it wasn’t me!). They also hosted me for a great evening in their boat, and we shared another evening on the town. A great part of canal life is meeting and making new friends.

Am joined this evening by a Vancouver friend, Karen, who will be travelling with me for a few days- checking out to see if I can offer the kind of hosting proposed in the transition year scheme. We hope to continue up the Stratford Canal, and then back towards Braunston, or perhaps another way into Birmingham. We’ll see.

The weather is certainly hints of autumn. The evenings are quite a bit colder, and the weather is much more changeable. Today was really grey and miserable until about 10am, when the sky cleared, and it got warm. This evening is back to the rain.

The forecast is for significantly cooler and wetter, so it is time to fire up the stove, get out the wet weather gear in earnest, and away we go.

 

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I’m in Evesham, having travelled back to Tewkesbury, spent the night there beside a boat, washed up during the floods last spring, and perched precariously hanging overe the edge of the river bank. How not to moor the boat!

I revisited the marvellous town of Tewksbury. They have really worked hard to make the town historic, colourful and attractive. Lots of half-timbered buildings. The flags are the coats of arms of the knights that fought in the battle that took place nearby.

Then up the Avon river. What a difference from the Severn: there the banks are tall, and there are trees and bushes, which is about all you can see. The Avon has much lower banks, and there are fields to the water’s edge, so there is as much to see as in most canals. Idyllic! The weather has also been late summer sun (I got burned a little in patches where I hadn’t got the sunscreen properly spread). I managed the very difficult river locks: they are wide, and the upstream paddles shoot water directly at the boat. I need to manage both bow and stern lines, while staying at the paddles on both sides of the lock (15′ apart). Needless to say, I run around a lot, and am quite slow so that things don’t occur so quickly I cannot respond in time.

I stayed overnight in Pershore, a lovely little market town, with the remnants of an abbey, destroyed mostly in the 1500’s when most abbeys were dissolved. There is a remaining church, and the stonework of former attachments is fascinating- a good glimpse into how structures were built.

I am now in Evesham, another delightful market town, with a market this morning. Lots of pedestrianized lanes and street, preserved from medieval times. Another abbey; this one with less remaining, except there are two churches within 50m of each other. One is preserved by the histroic church society, the other is still in use. The trip from Pershore was interesting: there was a couple moored ahead of me in Pershore, who departed within minutes of me. They were obviously completely new, and had no clue what to do in locks, or driving the boat or whatever. My hope was to have someone to help with the lock duties. Instead, I ended up doing ALL the lock work, managing my boat, AND helping them. Both stayed firmly on their boat looking completely helpless and forlorn. We made without significant incident.

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I’m still in Gloucester, and spent the day touring in the city. Gloucester seems to be a little ‘tired’ and looking for a vision economically for the future. The city center is full of shops- but there are lots of vacant ones as well. Worcester is much busier feeling in the center of the city. Gloucester docks are very large and full of 6 story brick warehouses around the harbour basin. There is a maritime museum detailing the history of the canal and basin, and some of the warehouse buildings have been renovated and adapted for other purposes- a college, some retail and office spaces, but there are also several derelict, and abandoned.

The basin has a couple of graving docks (dry-docks) where one is the refit of a large barqu ship. Interesting to see them working on a real, wooden-hull vessel. The ship has been used in many movies, and is being refitted as part of it’s normal cycle of maintenance.

I have been trying to get the time-lapse idea of my travels working, and I am failing miserably. The idea is like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaDjF0e4k_I which is someone else’s really fantastic view of a section of the Grand Union canal we did earler in the trip. We were going the other direction, from Leamington Spa to the top of the flight pictured, but this will give an idea of the kind of experiences we had. Enjoy. (and if anyone knows how to do this, I’d appreciate assistance!).

 

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Change in plans: I was going to stay in Worcester but see yesterday’s post. Then I planned to stay in Tewkesbury, before going up the Avon River. Tewkesbury is really nice and I will spend more time there, but the choir was on holiday at the Abbey, and I had to pay for mooring, so I decided to leave early and go to Gloucester. Wise move! The Cathedral had a visiting choir for evensong who were awesome. I listened to their rehearsal (with the background of the bells ringing changes). Then the service itself which has awesome music and really made a good start to the week. I will explore Gloucester; the old port and the city as well.

The river Severn from Worcerster to Gloucester is really pretty boring: all that can bee seen are the wooded river banks that are at least 2m high with trees and bushes on top. There are few glimpses of anything else except sheep, cattle, and waterfowl. Bucolic, but not really stimulating. The water level is quite low, as there has been little rain, which made the cruise very gentle. I’ll watch the weather carefully for the return trip!

 

 

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