July 13

Tom and Liam have gone on to their next adventures, having spent 5 days aboard. We climbed 36 locks over 3 days, and experienced some wonderful summer sunshine along the way. The views from the Leeds and Liverpool canal are spectacular, highlighting the verdant green nature of England. The urban areas of Wigan and Blackburn are less spectacular, with lots of derelict industrial buildings and lots of detritus in the canal, necessitating lots of trips down the weed hatch, to remove plastic, old coats, fishing line and the occasional laundry basket.

Leeds and Liverpool canal above Wigan

Leeds and Liverpool canal above Wigan

Tom and Liam enjoying the sun...

Tom and Liam enjoying the sun…

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early morning mist

early morning mist

 

The mornings have been memorable, as we stayed in the countryside: quiet, with mist forming on the warm canal waters. That quickly burns off, and then the sun is strong enough to burn unprotected areas.

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Leafy tunnels and smiling faces

After the boys left, I was moored outside a pub in Blackburn, where Nick had saved me a berth. There was a festival (small, but enthusiastic), with live music at full volume.We moved along…. Now just outside Rishton, where the heavens opened up overnight, and lots of rain. It is clearing off this morning, however, and that is the perfect balance: rain to keep everything green, but overnight, so I don’t have to cruise with the top up or an umbrella in hand!

 

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July 10

On the move. Stayed last night alongside the Leigh Branch of Leeds and Liverpool. It was very windy, so we chose a tree-lined section, near a lake, and it was magic. They boys watched the football (soccer) game until the battery was tired, and we all crashed. Found the result this morning. We then moved on to Wigan, and the flight of 2+21 locks up the Wigan hill. A gorgeous day, which more than made up for the flight which had major water problems due to leaky locks. I ran aground- stuck fast on the mud and crap on the bottom of the canal, until the boys went ahead and flushed enough water down to refloat the boat.

We made it to the top, with no major issues other than the lack of water, and are now moored beside a golf course, with a magic view out the other side along the valley we just climbed out of. A great day, with great crew!

 

 

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June 8

I’ve been hacked. Please don’t open any email attachments, unless I specifically state what the attachment is, and you want that attachment. There is a hack that sends ‘discrete’ messages- and as anyone who really knows me, discretion isn’t my strong suit! The hotmail account is closed for a while, and I’m working on the mortimer.ca one. Such fun- NOT!

I’m on the move again. Fannins have rejoined the boat, and we will head towards Wigan, as the Ashton remains closed. Disappointing: I was looking forward to the Cheshire ring, but, Yorkshire will be great. Certainly, the publicity from the Tour de France will heighten the numbers of people visiting this summer. I’m glad I missed those crowds, though the experience would have been interesting. I’m certain that dealing will the crowds and all, for seconds of viewing the cyclists, isn’t an attraction for me. I’m looking forward to being in the country again, with the pace of canal life, and having crew aboard to visit with.

 

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July 5

One year on. One year ago today, I set off from Canada on my boating journey. It has been all that I had hoped for, albeit in different ways than I had planned. I’ve spent a significant amount of time (and resources!) refitting the boat, and am very pleased with the results. There are still things to do (and will always be so, I expect…), but the boat is much more comfortable and useable now.

I’ve just had the rear ‘pram’ cover fitted, and although a very different style than I had originally planned for, this folds in 20 sec. so approaching bridges, etc won’t be such a project. We’ll see how things go.

the new pram cover on Wandering Canuck, moored in the New Islington Marina, Manchester.

the new pram cover on Wandering Canuck, moored in the New Islington Marina, Manchester.

I had planned to do the Cheshire ring, including the Ashton, Peak Forest and Macclesfield canals, but someone broke lock 10 on The Ashton, and that prevents the Cheshire ring completely. Might take 2 weeks to repair, but they don’t know for sure… I’ll have to change plans, and… Oh well.

I was able to ring at Manchester Cathedral for the branch practice this morning: all 10 bells. I rang the tenor (27hwt- 1390kg) which was a challenge, but managed.

I’m looking forward to being out of the city and back in the canal pace, though Manchester has been a good visit.

 

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July 1

Happy Canada Day (for those that care!)

Made it up the Rochdale 9- wide locks right through the heart of the city. I shared the workload with ‘Theodora’, which was much appreciated. The paddles were some of the most difficult I’ve ever done- took two winches and standing on the handle to raise one. I got out the grease and smeared it all over the rack mechanism, and that helped, but…

Salford Quays: large, open, and mostly unused (access very difficult by narrowboat) A real pity...

Salford Quays: large, open, and mostly unused (access very difficult by narrowboat) A real pity…

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more of Salford Quays: the industrial nature is in the distance, with Coronation Street sets on the left

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Castlefield Basin, which is the terminus of the Bridgewater canal. 3 generations of transport: canal boats, train on the center cast iron bridge, and tram on the upper level

 

Rochdale Canal through city center. Under, through and beside buildings

Rochdale Canal through city center. Under, through and beside buildings

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note no towpath. Makes lock working more challenging, but lots of spectators

I was invited back by Andy and Michael, to ring with them in Fallowfield. The first session started at 2000h, and was on their 8. After some practice, coaching, and effort, rang plain hunt on 8 without error, and moderately good striking. The tower is mostly young people (university students or recent grads), which was a contrast to most places. They are patient, hard-working, and welcoming. The second session started at 2145 in the nearby pub, where lots of discussion was had about a wide range of topics, some including ringing. John invited me to Didsbury tonight, so we’ll see.

Gorgeous weather, so a cycle ride is in order. I am NOT emulating the Tour de France people, (lots about that here in Manchester!), but will have a good ride, I think.

Manchester has made significant efforts to revitalize and make the use of canals better, but there is so much more that could be done with minimal investment (not clearing buildings, or re-digging canals, etc) to encourage more boaters using the access to Manchester facilities and attractions. Mooring in Castlefield is limited to 72h (was full most of the time I was there- and people couldn’t find a place to moor- so moved on). there are 5 smaller branches here, into old basins for warehouses. All unavailable to moor in… Salford Quays would be magic: beside the Imperial War Museum, a designer mall, the Lowry gallery and theatre… See comments on June 1 for more about this place.  The same goes for the many small branches of the Rochdale: there are so many opportunities to make this more inviting. I am presently in Picadilly Village, where one of these old basins has been restored, and is available (but only 24h mooring). Visiting, shopping and all is difficult when you need to move every 24h- and find a new spot to safely moor. I hope to head up 2 more locks of the Rochdale to New Islington Marina, where there have been efforts to add available space for boaters. 2 locks up to that, then back down later in the week so I can do the Ashton and Macclesfield canals with the Fannins.

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June 29

Today was ringing Sunday: I had intended to ring at the Cathedral on Wednesday, their practice night, but there was a concert on, so no ringing. I decided that I’d try on Sunday and see. Hmmm. Ordination service (big deal in the Cathedral), and about 1000 people. However, I was the 6th ringer to show up, and they were glad to see me. We rang the back 6 (the largest bells), with me struggling to keep up in plain hunt. Back to call changes, and the striking was much better. Ater that, went to the ‘student tower’ where learners begin in Manchester, where again there were only 6 of us, so we rang the back 6 of their 8. This time plain hunt went much better, and I also rang cover as they did several methods. I’m beginning to get a little more confident when doing that- even on unfamiliar bells.

For those that don’t understand the ringing terminology: started with big bells at the cathedral, where I was not doing too well. They made it easier, and I coped. Then to another tower with a second chance, and I didn’t screw things up.

I had made arrangements to get some help with a fellow I met in Liverpool, to do the infamous Rochdale 9 (locks). These go through the heart of the city, between and under buildings, and are challenging to work as space outside is limited, but the locks are big ones. I wanted to do them with another boat, for the help and to make it easier to prevent banging around so much in the locks, and missed the one that went through today, as I was ringing. No sweat, I will do them tomorrow morning as I am sure there will be a boat to share with.

All part of the grand scheme to do things as they go, without a lot of pressure. The weather is decidedly cooler the past few days, and that makes for incentive to get jobs done in the boat.

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June 28

A very laid back week. I had expected some crew, but plans changed, so am touring the city, doing boat stuff, and generally chilling. I leave Manchester tomorrow to get a new pram cover fitted, and to vacate the mooring.

I visited the Museum of Science and Industry MOSI, which was a good time, though I met so many groups of loud, obnoxious school children, I have a renewed happiness in my decision to abandon teaching. The museum was interesting, though a ‘work in progress’ as many exhibits had misplaced signs or information that was just plain missing. Still, some great examples of the cotton industry machinery and some good old engines.

Also went to the Imperial War museum North. Also a good museum, though again the school kids were not as polite as the ones I worked with. Lots of detail material that I was very unfamiliar with.

The whole quay area is part of the Manchester Ship Canal,and (theoretically) still in business.The bridges either lift or swing, though there is no commercial traffic that Icould discern, and pleasure traffic is limited by the bureaucracy in dealing with liability fears of the company- hence very little traffic. The opportunity is there to make this as exciting and involving as Liverpool, but is being missed completely. Too Bad. The moorings are ok, but limited, and there are signs all over preventing use of the nearly double area available for boats to moor, even though this is not the Quays  area, and really just an old canal dock area. There are at least 5 basins right here, all with mooring bollards- but signs forbidding use. A large missed opportunity in my view, especially as the moorings here are all full, and that is why I need to leave…

I’ve spend two days trying to get a folding bike for the boat that fits into the lockers. Seems that the PR brochures are ‘imaginative’ in terms of measuring, and what they say isn’t reflected in the real measurements. I’ll keep trying as i can.

Looking for new adventures nest week as I get Tom and Liam back aboard and we do the Cheshire ring canals.

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June 23

On this special memories day for me, I think back to the introduction to canal life, and sharing that with others. I hope that I can continue to do that with those that would care to experience that which I was lucky enough to share in the past… Five years on, I reflect on how things have changed, and how really privileged I have been.

So I am now in Manchester, in the Bridgewater basin, with about 10 canal arms and basins surrounding. Makes it very obvious as to the past importance of the canals. Most are derelict: just lily-pad covered stubs and old wharfs, but the message is still here. I toured casually from Worsley to here, crossing over the Barton Aquaduct. This is a swing aquaduct (!!): think swing bridge you see in the picture, but I am in a trough of water that seals at both ends, then swings to allow large ships to pass on the lower levels of the Manchester Ship Canal. Not swung very much anymore, it was an essential part of making Manchester a major shipping center in the day. You can see the very high levels of the motorway flyover bridge in the distance. (if you look very carefully!)

the swing road bridge beside the Barton aquaduct, on the Bridgewater canal

the swing road bridge beside the Barton aquaduct, on the Bridgewater canal

I’ll stay here in Manchester, getting boat things done ,and checking out the major attractions of this city. Lots to follow. I’ve included some pics from along the way: mills at Leigh, some of the greenery of the canal lanscape, and a photo of the approach to the historic wharfs of Wigan, which were so important in making the Leeds and Liverpool Canal important.

Wharfs at Wigan on the Leedsand Liverpool

Wharfs at Wigan on the Leedsand Liverpool

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one of the cotton mills of Leigh that were so important to the economy of this region through to the first world war.

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June 22

A laid back kind of day. Rang this morning for sunday services here in Worsley: they have a 10, but someone had broken a couple of ropes, so there were issues. We rang just the inside 5 today (there were only 5 people there, including me) Nice bells, and we didn’t ring the heavy ones (too bad: I love the sound of a large tenor!). They ‘let’ me wind the clock so I could say that I had wound the only clock that chimes 13 times at 1 o’clock. Something to do with late return to work, and the Duke of Bridgewater- who really is the source of most of this town’s historical importance: he built the Bridgewater canal to carry coal from his extensive mines in the area.

I rang last weekend in Liverpool, and there was a photographer there who wanted us to pose. This is Our Lady and St. Nicholas Church. http://www.jeffstarley.com/Bell_Ringers/Bell_Ringers.html it is an interactive link so you can see the tower and all. A posed pic, so no ringing occurring at the time (I did ring there last Sunday).

Weather is gorgeous: sunny, a little breeze,and just ideal. Yesterday I had the boat measured for a pram cover: this is a folding canopy that will cover the back of the boat, for mooring and for travelling (carefully!). Presently I have a cheapo tent that I put up to keep the wet out. Looks goofy, but sort of does the job. The real cover will be a permanent installation, and will give me a ‘porch’ on the stern. Good for the winter and rainy season.

I’ve been touring slowly from Halsall where I left Nick, to Worsley, and then later today, to Salford, which is part of Greater Manchester. You might recall I spent a day there with Christine and Nick, but need to go back to visit so many other things. Salford has the permanent set for the long running soap opera ‘Coronation Street’. I saw that from the street as we rode bikes by, last time. Interesting to see a full-scale, permanent set of brick facades.

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June 18

TH Cottage

Canal-side English gardens...

Canal-side English gardens…

I spent a long day on Tuesday. We made ready to leave Liverpool, gathering in Canning Dock at 0830h to await C&RT people to operate the lock. There were 4 narrowboats and 3 large Dutch barges. We were last in line, so floated around waiting. The water was incredibly clear- so much so that I opened the weed hatch, and took a photo of the prop- I could see the new split pin that was installed underwater back in April!

Out through the various basins, passageways, and former docks, past the old clock tower, and as we made ready to ascend the flight of locks onto the main canal, past the largest brick-built building anywhere. A former Tobacco Warehouse, now derelict, but scheduled for conversion and re-use. That will be amazing. The smaller warehouse opposite has already been converted and is in use.

We then proceeded up the Leeds and Liverpool, back through the swing bridges, past the national racecourse at Aintree (steeplechase-type course, about 6km long), and experienced the nastiest stretch for fouling the prop. I REALLY know how to get the weed hatch open, clear the plastic, wire, carpet, and waterlillies quickly, then get everything put back and underway. We made it all the way to Halsall, where Nick is leaving his boat as he goes back home. His wife is fine, amazingly after flipping the car on the motorway, but there is lots of stuff to deal with. 11h day, and I was tired.

Today much more casual. I helped Nick with a few boat things, got him off to his train, then moved along, very gently, to Appley Bridge. It was  gorgeous; sunny with a few puffy clouds, a following breeze, and one of those idyllic days, that was the perfect counter to the exciting and busy days in Liverpool. Green and pleasant land, this (someone should write a poem about this and set it to music… Oh yeah, they did.)

I hope your day is also as peaceful and invigorating at the same time. Enjoy whatever, where-ever you are: there is beauty all round you if you care to look. I have the luxury of doing so from the canal, and yet, the same is available if you take a moment, anywhere.

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